WHAT ARE SMOCKS?

Handmade traditional smocked dresses traditional craftsmanship

We've all heard of smocked dresses and most of us are able to associate it to classic children's clothing but few are those who know how to define smocks accurately.

What are smocks? What do we mean by the term smocked dress?

Smocking is the traditional art of embroidering geometrical or figuratives shapes using needles and thread on top of tightly pleated panels of fabric. It is a couture technique used in garment making.

It is a way of reducing the width of the garment at a chosen level, for example at the yoke, while allowing a certain stretch. In a sense it is the ancestor of elastics.

This craftsmanship is composed of two distinctive steps.

First the pleating. Three times the width of the final surface of the smocked panel is tightly gathered into vertical pleats.

For most fabrics, especially supple ones and light to mid-weight cotton, linen or silk, using the help of a manual pleater is possible.

This fantastic tool dates back to the 1940's and was invented by the Read family in South Africa. Thanks to a system of multiple needs and cylinders, the fabric is gradually rolled into the machine enabling the threads to go through to then gather the fabric. This is made possible thanks to a knob turned anti-clockwise.

To this day Read remains a worldwide reference for pleaters.

The video below shows the full process. Patience and careful gestures are required to ensure a perfect result.

However for gingham or striped fabrics, each pleat must be entirely made by hand so as to put forward a color or another and achieve a perfect harmony! The same goes for velvet with would be too thick to insert into the pleater. In these cases the pleating is done with a single needle. This requires more time but creates a beautiful neat and regular finishing.

blue and white gingham vichy ruffle sleeve peter pan collar handmade heirloom dress classic chic timeless traditional style for babies and girls timeless children clothing paris boutique charlotte sy dimby

Once the pleats are ready, the embroidery can then take place. Just like a painter with his palette and brush, needles and threads are used to ornate the pleated fabric.

For dresses, it is the chest part, the bodice which is smocked. The skirt is gathered and most of the time the design features a Peter Pan collar and puffed sleeves. This is the most classic style.

Handmade striped smocked dress classic children's clothing

Symmetry in the smocking is required to ensure a visual harmony.

Handmade smocks traditional couture children clothing

Over the years, we have developed a vast repertoire of patterns at Charlotte sy Dimby. Depending on the fabric, we can either choose geometrical shaped patterns or figurative ones. For prints, checks and ginghams we tend to favor mono colored graphic ones.

On solid fabrics, we like to represent visually recognisable elements. We love incorporating flowers, animals, bows or creating themed designs.

For fancy party designs, pearls can be inserted to create a festive shiny effect.

Handmade smocks

To learn more about the traditional smocks know-how visit our Youtube Chanel.

To discover all about the history of smocks click here.

To learn more about the Charlotte sy Dimby team, its story and its craftsmanship click here.

The book Les Brodeurs will also provide you with detailed information: Shop the book

1 comment

Jacquot Feb 02, 2024

Merci pour ces informations sur les smocks jp

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